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A nice surprise in Geneva's watchmaking world of excellence Aesthetics and chronometry: Charles Zuber's PerfosAutomatique

Posted by Caribbean World Magazine on 12 September 2019 | 0 Comments

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12 September 2019

Drawn by watch designer Eric Giroud, inhabited by a microrotor self-winding shaped calibre specifically developed for Charles Zuber, the Perfos timepiece asserts a sleek elegance that heralds infinite variations.Wow effect and absolute desire. 

This Perfos automatic watch and its well-executed variants take Swiss watchmaking headlines by surprise.They are the unexpected achievement of a brand with a rather jewelry connotation. A brand dedicated to encounters and paying tribute to the memory of Charles Zuber, a craftsman jeweller in the shadows, mastermind of incredible masterpieces of high jewellery and also the creator of the most incredible jewellery watches manufactured during the late 20th century, on behalf of the finest Swiss watch brands of prestige. This collection is a proof of maturity and mastery. It is the expression of the pure fundamentals of of both traditional and well crafted watchmaking.


Perfos watch, powerful, sleek, universal

Inspired, this Perfos line is self-assured, powerful. It allows you to look it straight in the eye, without lowering your gaze. Reassuring, it fits on the wrist like a statutory marker kneaded with assurance and comfort.Easily recognizable, even from a far away, it challenges you, over its rather well-made silhouette, to unravel the mystery of its subtle accomplishments. Like this dial, whose radiant sunny harmony is the result of an unbelievable complexity.It was developed in three parts. The baseplate, the inscriptions and the 60 cut and bevelled indexes that are fixed on it, nd finally this apertured to micron galvanic depth plate, which is embedded and highlights the reliefs of the round-the-hour circle. 

By entrusting Eric Giroud, the most "architect of watch designers", with the creation of the Perfos' aesthetic envelope, Vincent Perego, co-founder and partner of the Charles Zuber brand, adds a touch of both contemporaneousness and desire to this stunning piece.The challenge is to offer an alternative to the four to five models of shaped watches that have been revolving in a loop for 40 to 50 years. By shaped watches are meant those models that face away from the ambient roundness.

Aesthetics leading to the service of chronometry values

The result is an already iconic, universal timepiece.Vincent Perego, who is also a member of the SSC, the Swiss Chronometry Society, explains: "A stroke of genius, Eric Giroud has the idea of building a three-part case for the Perfos, without straight lines, to offer it a flat bezel and a festival of curves. “Because we have deliberately chosen an evolutive posture that rejects the single product logic". Right up to the end, Vincent Perego provided the Perfos with a shaped Manufacture caliber, the Calibra 01.It is a micromechanical system specific to Charles Zuber, with automatic winding by a bidirectional micro-rotor.A three-hand watch movement (164 components) that meticulously follows the non-round shape of the case and which, through the transparent case-back of the model, shows its belonging to a fine watchmaking industry proud of its fundamentals: blued screws, many decorative attentions, such as these sunny patterns in a wink to the dial, worked even on surfaces that are not visible to the eye.

Technical data

Perfos timepieces, by Charles Zuber

Charles Zuber's Perfos timepiece crystallizes a galaxy of skills that reconnects with the history of a Swiss watchmaker of excellence in Geneva that is particularly close to the exigencies of haute-joaillerie. It is based on a mix of materials, colours and know-how.Universal, iconic, the Perfos is inhabited by a Manufacture shaped caliber, the Calibra 01. It is the fruit of the creative energies of designer Eric Giroud. Its case is sleek, powerful, full of contrasts, its dial, particularly recognizable, is distinguished by its ultra-complexity, synonymous with uncompromising elegance. 

Hours, minutes, off-centre seconds in the upper vertical of the 6 o'clock position. 

Made entirely in Switzerland, the Calibra 01 is a so-called Manufacture caliber, i.e. specific to the Charles Zuber Genève brand. Self-winding mechanical, bidirectional micro-rotor. 28,800 oscillations per hour, i.e. a frequency of 4 Hertz.Power reserve 38 hours. 164 components including 33 rubies. Traditional blued screws, rhodium-plated, sunny embellishments even in non-eye-visible surfaces. Shaped movement 4.20 mm thick, carefully following the dimensions of the square box with its rounded edges. Inside dimensions 29.60 mm x 29.60 mm. 


The so-called "sandwich" construction, with three interlocking parts, is perfect for mixing materials. Angled circumference, alternating polished and matt faces. Materials: steel, titanium, three gold colours, pink, yellow and white. Plural combinations with the 5 dial nuances and leather strap options. 


In the guise of an old jewelLery setter's tool, a subtle evocation of the profession of master jeweller Charles Zuber and Vincent Peregoas prime project manager.


Ultra sophisticated, with no compromises, either on a black background with rhodium-plated grey indexes, or on a white background with pure black piano key indexes. Highest precision in manufacturing the 60 indexes (triangular furrows in relief), secured to the dial base that a second laser cut-out plate covers: each of the apertures perfectly matches the indexes. A meticulous work of art in love with micron precision. 


Technological challenge, perfect integration of the strap into the case. In the world of excellence watchmaking, the finishing of the links of the bracelet in keeping with the spirit of the case is a high complication. As an option, ethical alligator leather from the noblest source. 

Key data for Charles Zuber

A high jewelry brand based on the values and know-how of a late master jeweler, Charles Zuber brand has restored Geneva and its historic jewelry tradition at the heart of current events and on the world's markets. In the middle of summer 2019, the Charles Zuber Pomander haute-joaillerie collection made its first public release as part of the Bellerive music festival, ic. During his lifetime, recognized by his peers, Charles Zuber managed to produce legendary jewelry watches for the most prestigious watch brands, the ultimate in high-jewelry timepieces. Swiss Made, ethical in the careful choice and traceability of the materials used, precious and semi-precious gemstones, Charles Zuber also has a high level watchmaking dimension.